Metal Wire vs. Beading Wire

Wire is one of the most used materials in creating your own bead jewelry. Metal wire and beading wire are two very different materials and have very different specific uses in your jewelry. You will use metal wire to cut to length and utilize as eye pins to connect bead components together or to connect to chain to create your piece. Beading wire takes the place of chain, thread, or cord to string all the beads on a single length of wire cut to your measurements and finished with a crimp clasp or crimp beads and clasp of your choice.

Types of metal wire. Most common types of metal wire are sterling silver and gold-filled. You will also see brass or nickel. You will also see silver-plated or gold-plated, as well as "fashion" colors, such as purple, pink, blue, etc. Sterling Silver and Gold-Filled are the better quality metals, therefore they are more expensive compared to the other metals. However, sterling silver will tarnish, which is easily cleaned with a jewelry polishing cloth. Wire that is silver plated with a brass core will not tarnish and also provides good strength. I like to use a silver-plated brass wire to practice loops and wire-wrapping because it's economical and if a practice piece turns out well, the look of the wire is acceptable to my standards of quality for wear.

Metal Wire strength:
“Dead Soft”. Extremely pliable and bendable. I never use this. Even if you do a wire wrap to secure the bead, the loop may loose its shape if the piece is tugged on too hard. I'm sure there is a specific use for this strength of wire, I just haven't figured out what.

“Half Hard”. Bendable, strong and holds the shape. Good for wire-wrapping. I use this strength most often.

“Full Hard”. The strongest wire. Will hold the shape but difficult to bend. I use this for heavy beads or a rosary design because it holds its shape the best.

The size of metal wire is determined by “gauge”. The range of gauge for sterling silver and gold-filled is usually 16 Gauge to 28 Gauge. Remember, the higher the number of gauge, the smaller in diameter the wire. I typically use 22 Gauge for most of my work but I also have on hand 24 Gauge and 26 Gauge for seed beads and freshwater pearls, which typically have smaller drill holes. It is difficult to find half-hard and full-hard strength in the higher gauges. Typically I have good luck finding what I want at bead shows or catalogs, but most bead stores only stock limited choices in gauge and strength.

Beading wire, also commonly called "tigertail" is available under several different brand names, such as Acculon and Beadalon, among others. Marketing wise, Tigertail has a trade-mark which differentiates itself from the Beadalon and Acculon brands as a more economical beading wire. Tigertail is a little stiffer than the Beadalon and Acculon products, but it's basically the same material--small strands of steel, sterling silver, or gold wire, wrapped in a protective nylon coating to provide flexibility and strength as an alternative to thread or silk cord. It is especially suited for designs using sharp-edged or rough-edged natural and metal beads because it avoids abrasion and provides a fluid look that chain and metal wire can't give you. It also won't stretch out over time like silk cord or thread. You do have to use crimp beads or crimp ends to finish the design and connect clasps, or to hold beads in place throughout the design if you want to space out your beading components along the wire. Some beading wire will hold a knot instead of using crimp beads, but I strongly recommend the use of crimp beads or ends to connect clasps and jump rings. Beading Wire is measured differently from metal wire, both in strength and size.

*Beading wire is measured in diameter, and strength and flexibility is determined by number of strands. I typically use size .019 in a 49 strand because I want to use this wire with a range of beads and projects. Size .019 will fit most beads and 49 strand offers flexibility with the most strength. 49-strand will also hold a knot, so keep that in mind when choosing your wire. Size of beading wire varies depending on the brand name.

Typical sizes are as follows:
.012 x-small
.015 small
.019 medium
.021 large
.024 large-1
.030 x-large
.036 xx-large

Strength:
7-strand offers good flexibility, may kink, good strength
19-strand is softer and more supple than 7-strand
21-strand is soft, but has a good drape and good strength, will hold a knot
49-strand is soft & supple, maximum kink resistance, professional-quality standard, you can knot it

I haven't found much of a difference in beading wires marketed under different brand names. It's up to you to discover how you like best to use beading wire, how soft and supple do you prefer your wire, whether you prefer to knot it or use crimp beads, and what kind of beads you typically use in your designs. All these factors will narrow your choice in beading wire. I stick with Beadalon in sizes .012 and .019 in strengths 19-strand and 49-strand. I find that these two sizes and strengths meet all my beading design needs. I use a lot of gemstone beads, seed beads, and pearls in my designs and these sizes fit the smaller drill holes and provide enough flexibility and strength to hold a good drape.

Memory wire is also widely available, but the difference with this product compared to metal wire and beading wire is that Memory Wire is very rigid and holds its coiled shape. Make a loop at one end, string your beads, and then finish the other end with a loop or half-drilled bead secured with glue, and viola! Your necklace or bracelet is finished. You won't have much influence in the drape of memory wire as it will adhere to its manufactured coil and sits close to the skin.

You will also see a product called French Wire, or Buillon. This is a tiny wire coil that is cut to length and threaded over silk cord or thread to protect it from abrasion against metal findings, like when you are finishing your necklace and need to connect a clasp. I've never used this product because I prefer knotting and bead ends, but I know some beaders who swear by it, so it's worth a try to see if you like it.

That's about all I know on metal wire and beading wire. Cheers!